Wander

We took some time to do some exploring in the small city where we are staying. It began with something really crazy. A drive to the top of one of the mountains that surrounds Surkhet valley where we are staying. 

To the Right is the mountain we drove up. The picture is taken from the roof of the small hotel /hostel we are staying in.

At first the road was they typical bad road that I have come to expect in this rural western Nepali region but as we went further and further up the mountain the road went from typical bad to unbelievably bad to "are we sure this is even meant for a car?" kind of bad. 

When we finally arrived at the summit, I took a minute to get my stomach out of my throat, then proceeded to hike around and see the sights. There were some small shops, and by shops I mean small huts with a few things for sale in them. 

It is a sheer drop from the top of this part of the mountain to the valley floor. When the updrafts are right thrill seeking hang gliders will launch from up here.

A short trail around the top gave us great views of Surkhet Valley which has become the new district and provincial capital so there have been a lot of construction and improvement projects in the works which means the roads are a mess, only short sections are paved.

We explored around the summit area for a while and began the stomach wrenching drive 

back down to the base of the mountain. After a short drive and time for recovery we made to a Hindu temple and worship area. The Deuti Bajai Mandir is the most well known Temple in Surkhet. There is a specially dedicated area for offerings to be made by the foot impressions of Shiva on a rock. 

This Shrine complex to Shiva (inside) is a hub of Hindu worship and religious activity at certain times of the year.

I am not sure what people offer to Shiva but I can tell you the flies really appreciated the offerings.There was one priestess there helping people with their offerings. There were also to women who were washing out one of the shrines. I suppose even the gods need baths 

once in a while. It is interesting that there are candles lit on the side of the shrine symbolic of prayers like Catholics do, and there are bells towards the front for prayers like the Buddhists. It seems that religious activity is religious activity no matter where you go. It is like... pick a religion, light a candle, say the right words and hope someone is listening.

After the Hindu temple we took a stroll through a park which was really a welcome change from the hustle and bustle of the dusty roads and angry horns of vehicles trying to tell you to get out of the way so they could get by. It was about as close to zen as I have come on this trip.

Bulbul Lake is one of the bright spots in this dusty city. It was recently cleaned and renovated and now seems to be a hub for teens to hang out.

We walked around appreciated a few moments of quiet and serenity and headed out for the last part of our excursion. The site we were headed to next is perhaps one of the oldest if not thee oldest touristy site in Surkhet. A little slice of history is what I really love.

This Buddhist temple or perhaps shrine is better is called Kakre Bihar. It is a Hindu-Buddhist Temple Near Birendranagar city where we are staying. Kakre Bihar has a shaped like the seed of a cucumber so it is called Kakre bihar. The Nepali word 

for cucumber is Kakro. The stones of what remains are strewn around the site and you can see by walking around that they are recreating the intricate designs of the broken stones so that each piece can be replicated and replaced.

This temple is believed to be built on 12th century by a famous king who fell in love with the Surkhet Valley. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1866. Form what I can tell reconstruction this has been a very long process beginning back in the 1980s.

There is a somber beauty that surrounds this place. Almost like walking through a graveyard that even though it looks like it is falling apart you know there is some very old even ancient significance and presence to it. I wonder what it was like 500 years ago to walk the steps to this temple. I wonder how people felt as they approached its imposing size. Perhaps like the Europeans as they approach the Gothic Cathedrals of the middle ages - and still today. 

I suppose this is what religions do. They build massive and impressive structures hoping these structures will impress the God or gods they revere and honor. Religion wants to remind you how small you are compared to the greatness of the deity to which it points. They tell you this is where you have to go to worship your god so that when you get there you can't help but think how small you are when thinking about this god.

What would be really impressive is if one of those gods or God lived as a human so that they knew what it was like to suffer and experience pain and loss rather than just imposing their will all the time. Is that too much to ask? Hmmmm

Just a Meandering Thought...

Voyage

So our flight left at about 11pm Boston time. They sky was dark as we pulled away from the gate. During the flight most people had their shades draw and I did a lot of sleeping. I happened to notice one or two light spots in the cabin over the course of our flight but when finally landed it was still dark. I spent an entire flight in a seat in a plane. It was dark when I left, it was dark when I arrived. It was dark for all eight hours of my layover, dark when I left there. I did not see light again until began our decent to Katmandu.

Over all the trip involved a lot of sleeping and a couple of movies. The biggest surprise came as we were coming in for a landing. There is a lot of pollution that hangs in the sky here. So much so that many people walk around wearing masks. Apparently the pollution that comes out of the cities in India gets blown by the air currents into the mountains but not over the mountains and so it hangs in the air in lower lying areas like the Kathmandu Valley.

As I walked down stairs into the tarmac and I was greeted by a familiar face. It was a face I have seen though it can take many forms. Shiva is said to live in these mountains and from Shiva's hair springs "Mata Gunga" the goddess Gunga, which flows from the mountains and across the northern plains of India. Shiva is the most revered Hindu god in this part of the Hindu world, and why not, the Himalayan mountains are home for Shiva. For a little more on Shiva click here or here.

Just some Meandering Thoughts...

FALLS

From the British graveyard we went to the home of some Americans who have been living in India for several years. They are friends of our host which is why we visited.

A picture of our gracious hosts on July 2nd.

The husband of this couple is a linguist currently learning his sixth Indian language so that he can translate official documents and other materials into that language. This language is spoken by about 50,000 people in a tribe in southern India.

A view looking south and down in the direction of where we came. From their balcony you can kind of get a feel of the steepness of the slope that this house and pretty much all the houses here seem to precariously sit.

The apartment house, sits on the edge of a steep drop off and was build in the late 1800’s for a British officer. It is a large building that is now a four level apartment with an orphanage on the top level. I guess the British officers lived pretty well. Their balcony has quite the view.

Up the road a little bit from their home was another impressive vista. In the post "Graveyard" I mentioned that the cows are everywhere, the even walk the streets like pedestrians. In the photo to the right, you not looking at mountain goats... those are cows.

After our visit and our lunch we went to a popular tourist area (though we were the only white people there) to see a huge waterfall tucked away in a ravine between mountain slopes… It is not a tourist trap in the sense that mostly westerners are there. It is a beautiful waterfall close to 100 feet high though main cascade is about 40 feet high. Kempty Falls, as it is called, is a place for people to find some fun and relaxation. Think of some of the naturally formed sites in New Hampshire or elsewhere. At some point someone saw this spectacular waterfall and then saw an opportunity to make some money.

The traffic was so bad and the roads are so narrow, that we were stopped about a mile from the falls to wait for the traffic to get going again, and even then it moved really slow. We took the opportunity to get in a few pics.

That being said, the people enjoying the water did not seem to mind at all. What we all observed was that the men when into the water in basically their underwear. The women however, wore their full traditional Salwar suit. There were a couple women who were progressive enough to wear shorts and a T-shirt, but nothing like the guys.

You can barely see that the bottom of this picture but there are people swimming and splashing in a small pool that has been built up at the base of the falls. This picture was taken on a bridge which crosses over the water as it flows into other pools further down the mountain side. This, as you can see, was a pretty popular spot.

The falls have been an attraction for people for more than 150 years dating back to the time when the British controlled the area. In fact even the name "Kempty Falls" comes from the British name for the place, "Camp tea." There is one road that goes through as you can see from the wide shot above. So traffic moves very slowly. Most people simply park by the side of the road and walk, which is what we ended up doing.

Here is part of the small market area that you have to walk through to get to the base of the falls. It's a good spot to do some shopping if you want to purchase some over priced souvenirs.

The long windy drive back down the steep mountain roads was quieter. The monkeys and cows and random pedestrians were things we had all seen before, so there were much few pictures being taken. We had a good dinner and slept very well that night...

OFF

On Saturday I visited a town (if you can call it that) called Mussoorie. (Think Missouri with a Hindi accent). It is tucked away in the hills (foothills… of the Himalaya’s). I went with my co-traveler Matt, and two college students from Indiana who are also staying here. At our highest point of elevation we were about 7,500 to 8,000 feet in elevation. This “town” is really a series of hamlets, or villages build into the side of really steep mountain slopes. The roads that connect these villages are a little wider than one lane back in the states and somehow they are two land roads here.

The first picture on the left is of a small slum along a river not too far from the college. There are slums here in the North but they are not like what you find farther south.

Some of the unique things that we saw on the roads from Darhedun and these mountain hamlets were cows, monkeys and guys carrying massively heavy loads on their backs and shoulders using a kind of sling that is tied to their heads.

The Most common Monkeys in this part of India is called the Rhesus monkey in English. In Hindi they are called Baghndar, there is no generic word for Monkey.

Monkeys are as common on these streets as squirrels. I made the observation that there was hardly any road kill on the streets - in fact there was none. I figured it had to be because monkeys are much quicker than squirrels and maybe a little smarter too.

The guy in the picture to the left is carrying a comparatively light load. I saw one guy who had just lifted what looked like a dresser onto his back / head.

Cows make their way up and down the streets like pedestrians. Cars will wait for oncoming traffic to ease before trying to pass a cow in the street, or a driver will honk his horn to let the cow know that he is trying to get by. Mexico has street dogs, but India has street cows. You will occasionally see one simply lying on the side of the road; even way up on these narrow windy mountain roads.

This statue of Shiva stood about thirty feet tall.

Another unique sight while we were on our way was a large statue of Shiva, the primary god of this region. Shiva is always holding a trident and always has a snake on him in some form or fashion. There is a massive Temple complex to Shiva, the largest in North India here. There are many other smaller ones around as well. I was told that as big as this one is, it is expanding. This region has been hit by Muslim extremists over the last ten years (the kind of stuff that does not get reported in western media) and as a result there has been a nationalistic movement towards Hinduism.

You are just barely able to see part of the complex in the picture on the left. It was take from a road as we passed by it. If you look closely you will see tridents throughout the architecture.

There is no official national religion in India; on the books India is a secular nation. But if you ask anyone, they will tell you that to be Indian is to be Hindu. Terrorism has created a resurgence in the popularity and practice of Hinduism here.

The windy narrow roads were at times breathtaking and a testament to Indian engineering was how they were able to get buildings to stand on these steep slopes.

These windy roads led us to our first stop; a British graveyard on the side of steep mountain slope...

CAMPUS

I took a walk around the campus here today (Friday) and took some pictures. The first half of the day was sunny for the most part so I took the opportunity to walk around the campus before the rains came. I took some pictures of the campus here so you can have an idea of where I am living.

This is the guest house where I am living for the next five and a half weeks. My room is on the upper right hand side. The school has many supporters in the states so it was built so people from the U.S. could come and not feel too far out of their comfort zone. It is home base for me. I will be going to more rural locations for a few days at a time from here.

This building is called Magdala. It is almost directly across the roadway from where the guest house is. It is the women's dorm.

This building is the academic building. There are maybe twelve or fifteen classrooms in this building. Students stay in their classrooms for five classes (there is a break for tea time) and the professors move from class to class.

This building is the chapel and mess hall. The chapel is on the upper level and is glass all the way around. The Mess, as they call it, (many words are carry-overs from the British days) is on the lower level. It is pretty big. Roughly 250 students are present for chapel services and they take up about a third of the floor space.

This building will house the new linguistics center that is being developed. The official language of India is English, in fact India is the largest English speaking nation in the world. Aside from that there are 4 major families of languages; within these four families there are just over distinct languages, from there there are over 4,000 dialects.

The mountains to the north east are often cloud covered which gives the place a bit of a mystical feel. It is easy to see why this region surrounding us was given the nickname “land of the gods”.

More campus vistas to come in a later post...

SUMMIT

About a Week ago I hiked up my favorite mountain in the North East, Mount Adams. It is not high compared to the mountains you read about in magazines, or see in news reports but it is an intense mountain. The reason I like it is because along with being the second highest peak in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and part of the Presidential Range it is the only one that comes to a "pointy" summit. At 5,799 feet it peaks about 1,200 feet above treeline which means that the last mile or so of the hike is very exposed to the elements. As we approached the summit my comrades and I experienced winds sustained at about 60 to 70 miles per hour. What added a mystical element to our experience was that once we emerged from the trees we were above the clouds... yeah the skies were "under-cast" where we were. As the sun set it lit up the clouds. It was beautiful. What some people don't realize is that these mountains are some of the most dangerous in the U.S. The reason is because many people under estimate the conditions there in the Whites. Until a recent cyclone off the coast of Australia, the fastest wind speeds in the surface of the earth had been recorded in the Presidential Range.

As I stood there braced against the wind and biting cold on the "Airline" ridge I thought for a moment that there have been very few people who have stood where I was standing and have seen the view that I was seeing. Then I looked at a sign post and was reminded why so few people make that hike in the middle of winter to experience was I was experiencing. The high winds and extreme cold temperatures create ice formations like this one. What does it take to have experiences like this one. What does it take to have an experience that so few people have? The Answer is quite simple, by going where so few people go. By being willing to do what so few others are willing to do. By doing something difficult, that takes some effort, perhaps to the point of exhaustion.

One of the writers of the New Testament, Paul, writes about how perseverance will bring about character. "...we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope." Romans 5:3-4. So few people are interested in Character these days so few people persevere. Anything that involves our own sweat or effort or sacrifice is the sort of thing we put effort into avoiding. We would rather have someone else do it for us. The only draw back to that approach is that whoever does the work eventually gets to enjoy reward, or in my case the view at the top. Whoever perseveres gets the character growth. Not always right away but in the end your efforts catch up with you. No one can grow your relationship with God other than you. No one can put in the effort and get results for you other than you.

I could have sent some one else to the summit of Mount Adams and had them take pictures all the way, but I would not have seen it for myself, I would not have felt the wind on my face, or touched the snow laden branches with my own hands. I would have to settle for pictures. The real thing is so much better yet many times we settle for a two dimensional experience rather than a four dimensional experience. It is four dimensions because the real thing involves time and space, whereas three dimensions only involve space. The real thing with God is the kind of thing that can only really be experienced in person; temporally and specially. We cannot do it through someone else, not even our parents our friends, our religious leaders, or anyone else. Doing that takes personal character, to get character we must learn from and work through difficult circumstances. In order to learn and grow we must experience difficult circumstances... kind of like trying to stand up straight in 60 to 70 mile an hour winds.

So if you find yourself there, in difficult circumstances, and wishing you were somewhere else, like anyone would, hang in there, keep going, persevere. The view farther ahead is most certainly worth it.

Just a thought...