WASHED

As we walked along the bridge that crossed the Ganges river we were able to see the full breadth of activity that surrounds the Ganges myths. People will travel thousands of miles for the chance to dip in the Ganges at this specific place on the river. This river is holy to them; not just because it has the cleansing effect of their souls, but because the river is an actual goddess. When they step into the river they are immersing themselves in the goddess Gunga. They wash themselves with the goddess Gunga who takes their sins, also called bad Karma, with her down the river.

A man begging on the side of the road on our way to the river

Much of the Hindu beliefs and traditions center around the role that the Ganges plays. As I watched I tried to get my mind around the fact that people have been coming to this river to wash away their sins for centuries even millennia. I wondered to myself:

• What are these people thinking as they step into the river?
• What are they thinking as they throw water over their shoulders?
• As they strip down to their underwear and wade into the cold mountain waters do they think about what it feels like to be completely surrounded by a deity?
• Do they genuinely believe that this river is a goddess or do they wash simply wash out of tradition?

The poor and homeless walk side by side with those who are well off. Both equally need to wash in the River.

There was a man there who had set up a tarp tied to a tree. This is where he would live during the pilgrimage season. Typically he is naked but at the time we were walking by he had a towel wrapped around him. He is thought of a more holy because he walks around naked and goes into the river naked. He sets up a make shift home next to a goddess, so that he can be close to her, and wades into her naked so that he can be closer to her than anyone else. For this, he is holy.

• I wonder what people are searching for.
• I wonder if they find it.
• I wonder when they lay their heads on their pillow or their mat at night if what they think to themselves.
• Are they grateful for the chance to step into the river… the goddess?
• Are they grateful and fulfilled for having their sins washed away?

In Christianity people are forgiven of sin by God. For the Hindu the goddess does not forgive sins she simply washes them away. It speaks to the relational nature of Christianity and the pantheistic and ritualistic nature of Hinduism. An unfortunate aspect of the lure of the Ganges is that the Ganges is also a good place for to make money. Not only are there a lot of beggars hoping to capitalize on people's generosity while they are in a religious mood, but there are countless venders selling items from containers to bring home the mystical waters of the Ganges the people selling henna tattoos.

These stores and shops are just a few of the hundreds of shops and vendors that can be seen along the river. So simply put out a blanket and lay out holy trinkets.

There are those who are simply there to make some money off those who are aware of their need to do good and take advantage of the giving mood that many are in as they go through their rituals. Ironically, a place that is set aside for religious devotion, is also a place that many as a time to make a buck, (or a rupee). And when they see white people they see dollar signs.

When you see women using their children as a means to tug on the hearts strings of visitors to compel them to give them some money it is difficult to understand the feelings that well up. Is it sadness or anger? Unfortunately, many times the money you give them does not actually go to them. Often they are part of a ring of people who are forced to do this by one a few others.

As I think about how sad it is, I am forced to acknowledge that churches or perhaps more accurately, Christian religious leaders in the U.S. do the same thing. The only reason it does not seem as sad is because the people they prey on are not trying to get their next meal. Some of the great works of serving the poorest of the poor have been done by devotees of religion, I think of Mother Theresa as one example. But some of the worst atrocities have also been done in the name of religion, the example everyone knows is the Crusades, but historically the Muslims were every bit as barbaric as the Christians. Definitely not a high point for either religion, or its leaders.

I was also struck at the dichotomy that I observed here. In one place set back from the river there were a couple of really nice hotels, and about a twenty minute drive from the river there were several really nice hotels. These hotels exist for the rich to come in from all over the world to wash in the Ganges, and then leave once they are “clean”. But to get to the Ganges they have to pass by the thousands who are stuck in dwellings that are nothing more than sheets of plastic that barely keep out the rain.

I thought that the Ganges was a place where people would go to have some kind of profound personal religious experience, but what I saw was a lot of families who had come to make a day out of coming to the Ganges. It was a family affair for many. Others were there to make some money. Still others were there out of tradition. But for whatever the reason, everyone was there to get something from the river. Everyone there had some kind of need that they expected the river could meet. For one a clean soul, for another, the people who would have money which could meet their physical needs.

DWAR

The place we visited along the Ganges river is called Hari Dwar. It is close to Rishikesh, made famous by the Beetles when they came to meet with a guru here. The word “hari” means god and the word “dwar” means gate or door. So the place that we went to see the Ganges river is referred to as the door to god or the gateway to the gods. The gods are believed to reside in the mountains which are about a two hour drive to the Northeast. There are many myths and stories surrounding the gateway to the gods. It is the reason why this place will see millions of people during the pilgrimage season. One of the more well known stories behind Hari Dwar goes like this:

There was a battle between the gods and the demons over a substance call "Amrit". "Mrit" in Sanskrit means "life", and Amrit, is anti life. The "a" has the same effect in Sanskrit as it does in Greek, they are from the same base language that scholars called Proto-Indo-European (P.I.E.). It is a theoretical base pre-historic language for where scholars believe Greek, Sanskrit even Latin came from. I digress...

So the demons and the gods were fighting over a substance called Amrit. Amrit is a powerful milky substance which holds the power of life and death. (Note the motherly, life giving connotation). Whoever controlled this milky substance would control all of life. Fiercely, both sides fought for control of the Amrit. At some point the gods gave the demons what they were led to believe was Amrit, but was actually a divine form of liquor and the gods took control of the Amrit. As the gods escaped a brief scuffle ensued and the container of Amrit tipped and was about to fall to the earth where it would not be able to be recovered. Instinctively, without thinking, Shiva jumped underneath the spilling Amrit and caught it in his mouth to prevent it from being lost to earth. As a result Shiva began to choke. He could not swallow it because if he ingested the Amrit its power would overwhelm him and he would die. (Yes, I know it is ironic, but apparently the essence of life is pretty potent stuff).

To the right is a painting portraying Shiva in his pursuit of his wife Parvati. Note, this painting would have have taken place before the this fight with the demons so he is not a blueish color.

In order to save Shiva’s life, his wife, the goddess Parvati, choked him to prevent him from swallowing the Amrit. This is why in most of the pictures or paintings you see of Shiva he is a bluish color. As the gods, including Shiva, were escaping with the Mithra, Shiva was coughing up some of the Amrit, and seven drops (or ten depending on which version of the story you are hearing) fell from his mouth to the earth. These drops landed along the Ganges river and became the holy sites were people go to bath and perform their ritual washing. Going to the places where the essence of life fell from Shiva’s mouth makes the spiritual cleansing people are seeking a deeper and more thorough cleansing and that their new life will be a step up in the reincarnation process.

Hari Dwar is the first of these holy places along the Ganges river. It is were the Ganges, which flows out of the Himalayan foothills, hits the plains and goes from a narrow rushing stream to a wide, slow moving river. So the place where the river opens up; the place where a drop of Amrit, the essence of life, fell from Shiva’s mouth to earth, the last place you can stop on the Ganges before entering the region dominated by the worship of Shiva, is called Hari Dwar, the gateway of god, or door of the gods.

Hari Dwar is also one of four sites in particular where Hindu's visit once every twelve years for the festival of Kumbh Mela. It is a celestial festival based on the alignment of Jupiter with other constellations.

GUNGA

On Saturday July 8th we went to the Ganges River...

I try to organize my thoughts enough to write about it but there are so many things that flood my mind it becomes difficult to articulate and reflect on the experience. So will write a short series on the Ganges to help you to understand and me to process the importance of this river to the Indian people, in particular the Hindu's. I suppose the best place to start is the beginning…

In the picture to the right Gunga is descending onto Shiva's head from the realm of the gods to the high forests which is the region of the Himalayan foothills, you can tell by the pine trees.

There are many myths surrounding the source of the Ganges (Gunga). There are three or four main stories and many less known localized versions of these stories. One such story that is told in the south goes like this:

In pictures of the goddess Gunga you will often see her in the middle of the river, which she embodies, and the Himalayan mountains in the background, which is where the river comes from.

The goddess Gunga wanted to bring water to the people. But Shiva told her that if she were to fall to the earth she would destroy humanity. (Shiva is one of the main gods of Hinduism and he is most worshiped in the region where I am now, near the Himalayas, the source of the Ganges river). Shiva suggested that she fall on his head instead of falling directly to the earth. This is why you will sometimes hear that Gunga, or the Ganges, flows from Shiva’s head. And for the sake of humanity this is what she did.

In the picture to the right you see the goddess Gunga imbedded in Shiva's hair, this is considered the source of the Ganges river.

In pictures of Shiva you will see a spring of some kind flowing from the top of his head and in some cases you will see the goddess Gunga imbedded in his hair. It is believed that she lives in that high place. There is a very close connection between Gunga and Shiva, since she flows out of his head so, often they are pictured together.

The source of the Ganges is a high place - Shiva’s hair, and it is also a high place - the Himalayas.

That is one of the myths about the origin of the Ganges, one of possibly hundreds. I have imbedded links to a few others where the word Gunga appears.

DANCE

The air sings with the sound of water droplets breaking through into this world.
The ground chants to the rhythm of rains that pound earthen drums.
The darkened sky and deepening clouds shield dampening air from equatorial sun.

Louder it grows as heavy skies open up,
like waves ever crashing and never receding,
like weights falling and crushing the ground.

The sun is gone,
The mountains vanish,
and the puddles dance...

CAMPUS

I took a walk around the campus here today (Friday) and took some pictures. The first half of the day was sunny for the most part so I took the opportunity to walk around the campus before the rains came. I took some pictures of the campus here so you can have an idea of where I am living.

This is the guest house where I am living for the next five and a half weeks. My room is on the upper right hand side. The school has many supporters in the states so it was built so people from the U.S. could come and not feel too far out of their comfort zone. It is home base for me. I will be going to more rural locations for a few days at a time from here.

This building is called Magdala. It is almost directly across the roadway from where the guest house is. It is the women's dorm.

This building is the academic building. There are maybe twelve or fifteen classrooms in this building. Students stay in their classrooms for five classes (there is a break for tea time) and the professors move from class to class.

This building is the chapel and mess hall. The chapel is on the upper level and is glass all the way around. The Mess, as they call it, (many words are carry-overs from the British days) is on the lower level. It is pretty big. Roughly 250 students are present for chapel services and they take up about a third of the floor space.

This building will house the new linguistics center that is being developed. The official language of India is English, in fact India is the largest English speaking nation in the world. Aside from that there are 4 major families of languages; within these four families there are just over distinct languages, from there there are over 4,000 dialects.

The mountains to the north east are often cloud covered which gives the place a bit of a mystical feel. It is easy to see why this region surrounding us was given the nickname “land of the gods”.

More campus vistas to come in a later post...

SACRED part 2 of 2

As the first millennium b.c. progressed the Vedic culture settled into the Ganges River basin and developed a more stationary, agriculturally based society. The more mobile nomadic society of their ancestors had faded and the Vedic people were living in one place for longer periods of time. Clans fought with one another and annexed land from neighboring clans creating larger and larger kingdoms.

The Vedic religion continued to go through changes as well. Since the society was more stationary Brahmans, holy men of the priestly caste, were making their homes in the forests where they would meditate and contemplate reality and the meaning of life. The fourth and final of the Hindu Shruti texts was written by these hermit holy men as they practiced their religious meditations.

If you have not read “SACRED part 1” what you essentially need to know is that there are two kinds of Hindu texts: “Shruti” which means “revealed” i.e. from a divine source, and “Smrti” which means “remembered”. There are four Shruti collections of texts; I talked about the first three in "SACRED part 1." The fourth of the Shruti texts is called the Upanishads.

The Upanishads reflect the wider cultural shift taking place in the region being written roughly between 800 and 300 b.c. In the Upanishads there is a distinct turn away from many of the Vedic ideas and practices which mirror the shift in the wider culture. The hermit-sages who composed the Upanishads sought something more-ultimate, eternal salvation. Thus they spoke about and believed in a single, eternal, impersonal, divine force that animates and permeates the entire cosmos - Brahman.

The word "Upanishad" comes from a Sanskrit term that means "to sit near." It refers to a student sitting near a teacher and learning directly through questions and answers. The Upanishads hold that since everything is Brahman, the individual is also Brahman. Individuals think that the things that make them who they are, such as one's relationships, or appearance, or even thoughts, are real. The Upanishads hold that these are merely elaborate illusions (sounds a little like Platonic dualism).

If one wishes to realize the ultimate, then one must detach oneself from all of these unreal things through ascetic meditation. One must go off and meditate on the reality of Brahman, which begins with meditation on the self, which is in essence the same as Brahman. In doing this you can be free from desire. If you think that sounds like Buddhism you are about to find out why.

And so it was that with the societal changes came the emergence of clan leaders and even kings who ruled over large areas of land and many people. One particular king, King Suddhodana, ruler of the Sakya tribe, which straddled present day India and Nepal, had a son whom he loved very much. His son was born around 560b.c. When his son had grown up he decided to venture outside of the protective walls of the palace where he lived to see what life was really like. He saw four things that changed his life, the fourth thing he saw is what was crucial. The fourth thing he saw was a person, a hermit actually. One of these priestly seers of the Brahman caste who lived out in the wilds where he would meditate. This hermit-sage had found the Hindu prince and talked with him about contemplation, meditation and the meaning of life. He returned to his palace home but at the age of 29 he left it all and headed for the wilderness himself. This prince’s name was Siddhartha Gautama; he would later become known as Buddha.

Buddhism did not do so well at first. Then Alexander the Great showed up...

SUMMIT

About a Week ago I hiked up my favorite mountain in the North East, Mount Adams. It is not high compared to the mountains you read about in magazines, or see in news reports but it is an intense mountain. The reason I like it is because along with being the second highest peak in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and part of the Presidential Range it is the only one that comes to a "pointy" summit. At 5,799 feet it peaks about 1,200 feet above treeline which means that the last mile or so of the hike is very exposed to the elements. As we approached the summit my comrades and I experienced winds sustained at about 60 to 70 miles per hour. What added a mystical element to our experience was that once we emerged from the trees we were above the clouds... yeah the skies were "under-cast" where we were. As the sun set it lit up the clouds. It was beautiful. What some people don't realize is that these mountains are some of the most dangerous in the U.S. The reason is because many people under estimate the conditions there in the Whites. Until a recent cyclone off the coast of Australia, the fastest wind speeds in the surface of the earth had been recorded in the Presidential Range.

As I stood there braced against the wind and biting cold on the "Airline" ridge I thought for a moment that there have been very few people who have stood where I was standing and have seen the view that I was seeing. Then I looked at a sign post and was reminded why so few people make that hike in the middle of winter to experience was I was experiencing. The high winds and extreme cold temperatures create ice formations like this one. What does it take to have experiences like this one. What does it take to have an experience that so few people have? The Answer is quite simple, by going where so few people go. By being willing to do what so few others are willing to do. By doing something difficult, that takes some effort, perhaps to the point of exhaustion.

One of the writers of the New Testament, Paul, writes about how perseverance will bring about character. "...we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope." Romans 5:3-4. So few people are interested in Character these days so few people persevere. Anything that involves our own sweat or effort or sacrifice is the sort of thing we put effort into avoiding. We would rather have someone else do it for us. The only draw back to that approach is that whoever does the work eventually gets to enjoy reward, or in my case the view at the top. Whoever perseveres gets the character growth. Not always right away but in the end your efforts catch up with you. No one can grow your relationship with God other than you. No one can put in the effort and get results for you other than you.

I could have sent some one else to the summit of Mount Adams and had them take pictures all the way, but I would not have seen it for myself, I would not have felt the wind on my face, or touched the snow laden branches with my own hands. I would have to settle for pictures. The real thing is so much better yet many times we settle for a two dimensional experience rather than a four dimensional experience. It is four dimensions because the real thing involves time and space, whereas three dimensions only involve space. The real thing with God is the kind of thing that can only really be experienced in person; temporally and specially. We cannot do it through someone else, not even our parents our friends, our religious leaders, or anyone else. Doing that takes personal character, to get character we must learn from and work through difficult circumstances. In order to learn and grow we must experience difficult circumstances... kind of like trying to stand up straight in 60 to 70 mile an hour winds.

So if you find yourself there, in difficult circumstances, and wishing you were somewhere else, like anyone would, hang in there, keep going, persevere. The view farther ahead is most certainly worth it.

Just a thought...